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ffclubhero
01-28-2008, 04:22 PM
Just wondering if anyone can post some pics of any open (ongoing) terrain in the works? My current abode is too small, but we're up for a move in June, and then it's on!!!:eek:

Skunkape
01-29-2008, 12:32 PM
I've posted pictures of some terrain I've done recently on my website, you can view them here (http://www.johnprime.com/models/).

Currently all I have pictures posted are of cardstock models, but I've taken some of my plaster models, just haven't posted them yet.

Mulsiphix
01-29-2008, 01:55 PM
This is some quality stuff you've got on your website. If you don't have the time would you mind if I posted your work here in the forum? Of course I would include a link back to the original website as well as make sure everybody understood this was your work and I was just posting it here for easy browsing.

Lexdragon
01-30-2008, 01:13 AM
Wow! That is really amazing! I just bought the Wotc dungeon tiles......which seem pretty lame now:D

Mulsiphix
01-30-2008, 01:43 AM
SkeletonKey Games puts out some pretty amazing tilesets. As far as professional terrain goes, I don't think anybody can beat Dwarven Forge (http://dwarvenforge.com/store/home.php) terrain though :eek:

Skunkape
01-30-2008, 07:39 AM
This is some quality stuff you've got on your website. If you don't have the time would you mind if I posted your work here in the forum? Of course I would include a link back to the original website as well as make sure everybody understood this was your work and I was just posting it here for easy browsing.

Sure go ahead and post the images you want here.

Mulsiphix
01-30-2008, 07:56 AM
It would be the full thing (text + images) in the articles/blogs section. Would that be alright? I know you said images but I just want to make sure text is alright too :D

ffclubhero
01-30-2008, 09:44 AM
Now that's what I'm talkin' about!!!! Mini games are always better with quality bits of terrain and buildings. My buddy Joe used to make these massive ruined buildings for 40K (like 18" high). The games were much better because of them.

Mulsiphix
01-30-2008, 09:49 AM
I have several terrain books from Games Workshop that I purchased from eBay. Some of the stuff in here is insane. I'll see what I can find on the web. Games Workshop as definitely encouraged custom terrain and mini's more than any other game company I know.

Skunkape
01-30-2008, 11:33 AM
Yes you can post the images and text here, and as far as the text is concerned, I'm fine with comments other than my own as well.

tesral
01-30-2008, 11:54 AM
SkeletonKey Games puts out some pretty amazing tilesets. As far as professional terrain goes, I don't think anybody can beat Dwarven Forge (http://dwarvenforge.com/store/home.php) terrain though :eek:

No doubt, but you have to hock your first born to afford them. The resin is heavy as all hell and fragile.

Card models, especially the PDF sets have the wonderful advantages of light weight and replaciblity. No they do not look as nice. But 17 bucks will buy an entire village of card models you can print till the cows come home or 5 resin floor tiles. Medieval Building Set, 100 bucks and ten pounds.

I understand the expense, I do resin casting myself. They are putting a great deal of work into those pieces. But I also have to do the math.

Mulsiphix
01-30-2008, 06:50 PM
Many thanks SkunkApe :D.

Unfortunately if you don't have money to burn Dwarven Forge is definitely way to expensive. The same could be said for legos though lol. Alright not as bad but still I can't believe how expensive they've gotten over the years. There was a custom terrain place I saw the other day, custom built pieces and not terribly expensive. More of a professional diorama place than a terrain business.

Lexdragon
01-31-2008, 01:17 AM
Have any of you ever tried the Grey primer on Styrofoam technique? Buddy of mine showed me some ruins he created with that and it looked real cool, gives it that crumbling wall look when the edges are broken or roughed up.

Mulsiphix
01-31-2008, 02:15 AM
Have any of you ever tried the Grey primer on Styrofoam technique? Buddy of mine showed me some ruins he created with that and it looked real cool, gives it that crumbling wall look when the edges are broken or roughed up.Never tried it myself. Any chance you could describe it or even better link to somewhere that has pictures?

Skunkape
01-31-2008, 08:22 AM
The Hirst Arts molds are priced a whole lot more reasonably than Dwarven Forge pieces. I'm not knocking Dwarven Forge, I'd love to have enough to build to my hearts desire, but I can get twice the amount of terrain using Bruce Hirst's molds for a fraction of the cost. The biggest turn off of Bruce's stuff is the time you need to spend to build it. Course, cardstock terrain also has similar problems, well and it tends to be somewhat less resistant to destruction and it doesn't weigh a lot so can get knocked over much easier!:D

Mulsiphix
01-31-2008, 09:04 AM
The molds require you provide the casting material though right? That alone can get quite pricey, especially if you don't want to mix it yourself :(. Why does terrain have to be so awesome?!

tesral
01-31-2008, 12:53 PM
I won a bridge made with Hirst Arts molds. Nice piece, plenty of work. Not finished yet (need to paint it).

Hirst still fall into heavy and fraigle. If you have a permanent place to game and time on your hands, I would jump on them.

tesral
01-31-2008, 12:55 PM
The molds require you provide the casting material though right? That alone can get quite pricey, especially if you don't want to mix it yourself :(. Why does terrain have to be so awesome?!

You can use plaster of Paris or hydrocal, both are dirt cheap. I wouldn't use resin, too pricy and it eats rubber molds for lunch.

ffclubhero
01-31-2008, 08:54 PM
GW does hold it down with terrain projects. They have TONS of articles for beginners and advanced. I'd highly recommend their site, even for just the average browser. Blue Table Terrain (pretty vids on youtube, by the way) does some nice work, but mostly for GW aficionados.

Mulsiphix
02-01-2008, 01:46 AM
I read an article recently about a Chainmail game that was held in 2005 or 2006. Gygax was there along with some of the other fathers of the PnP industry. They had the terrain created especially for that match. I can't seem to find it anywhere though :(. Any chance anybody else knows what I'm talking about and has a link?

Skunkape
02-01-2008, 07:49 AM
Well my resin of choice would come from this company, Alumilite (http://www.alumilite.com/). You can get it in quite a few hobby shops or model train stores if there are any in your area. Or you can buy directly from the manufacturer. What I would do, until you get used to using the stuff is buy a sampler kit to give you enough of it to experiment with, but not so much that if you don't go with that method, you haven't spent a lot of money.

What will help save your molds using resins is to coat the molds first with a mold release compound. While the molds will wear out faster with resin than say plaster, the mold release will help keep them in good shape longer.

Now, for my Hirst molds and even for the one I made myself, I use a dental type plaster. Yes it is somewhat more expensive than hydrocal, which by the way, I've used as well, dental plaster dries a lot harder, about 3 to 5 times harder plus, it dries a lot faster, I can demold in about 30 minutes, while hydrocal would take hours to set enough. Yeah, the dental plaster is more expensive, but since I have yet to break a piece cast in dental plaster, my hydrocal pieces actually start crumbling after a few uses and I don't play rough with my pieces!

The place I purchase the plaster from is Clint Sales (http://www.clintsales.com/). The one I've decided to use is called Merlin's Magic and comes in a few different colors. There are two other plasters which are stronger, but I haven't tried them, they are Excalibur and Die-Keen.

One last thing you can try, search on the net for dental plaster and you will probably find places that will send you samples. The samples are usually just enough to cast from half to a full casting of Bruce's molds.

That's about all I can think of now.

Oh yeah, I haven't seen the Chainmail terrain you're talking about, but I'll see if I can find it on the net.

Mulsiphix
02-01-2008, 11:29 AM
Thank you very much Skunkape. This kind of feedback is exactly what I'm looking for. I'd like to put a few instructional guides together, including links (lets save that for another thread (http://www.penandpapergames.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21044#post21044)), for those interested in trying their hand at creating custom terrain, molds, mini's, etc... Thank you very much for going into detail. Much appreciated :D

ffclubhero
02-02-2008, 10:44 AM
Anyone got anymore terrain projects?

tesral
02-04-2008, 02:19 AM
Well my resin of choice would come from this company, Alumilite (http://www.alumilite.com/).

Might I suggest you look into smooth-on (http://www.smooth-on.com/). I have found it surperior to alumilite. The finished product is not as brittle. Prices are comparable and you can get longer pot times.

Skunkape
02-04-2008, 11:34 AM
Thanks for the product link tersal, I'll have to check it out!

ffclubhero
02-05-2008, 10:22 PM
Sssoooo, I'd like to see pics of open terrain projects.... come one, people! Surely someone of the pen and paper bloodline has pics of a current project!!

tesral
02-05-2008, 11:53 PM
Sssoooo, I'd like to see pics of open terrain projects.... come one, people! Surely someone of the pen and paper bloodline has pics of a current project!!

Have, look at the Ship Yard (http://www.penandpapergames.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5206) thread.

ffclubhero
02-06-2008, 01:45 PM
That's a great tip about the styrofoam and grey primer. Is he watering it down or anything?

mrken
08-28-2008, 08:59 AM
Ok, you guys are looking for projects we are working on; I just started a new project for my game. The characters will one day end up in the court of the Duke, when they do I would like for this thing to be finished, if not, then at least the great room.

My inspiration came from the A Harn Kingdom Module called Kaldor . This one is Kaban . It is a three level castle with an inner harbor. I will be building mine without the harbor as this is an inland area. http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/Plans.jpg

The idea to build this out of Styrofoam rather than my customary cardboard and spackling came from watching a UTube made by a guy in Canada who goes by the name Kamloopian http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/Plans.jpg

He uses foam in some of his pieces. I find it to be fairly easy to work with, with the potential for a high degree of detail, but extremely time consuming. <a href="http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/?action=view&current=Dungeonroughcut.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/Dungeonroughcut.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

As you can see, the detail is beginning to become apparent.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/Dungeontexture.jpg

Skunkape
08-29-2008, 07:29 AM
Looking good so far, I can already see the detail in the walls, even without paint on them!

tesral
08-29-2008, 11:40 AM
How does the thin layer of spackle hold up?

mrken
08-29-2008, 12:19 PM
Generally, when I use the spackling I don't put it on very thin. I tend to pack it inside the corrugation and in the spaces between the pieces. Then after it sets, I am able to sand smooth if necessary prior to priming and then painting and texturing. The spackling tends to get fairly thick and the primer soaks in pretty well. This process tends to produce a pretty durable piece.

Some of my pieces are ten years old. Now I do tend to take care of my stuff and my terrain is no exception. UV has aged the color of the green turf stuff I use, and there are dents in some of the pieces where they have been abused, but I can always touch them up if I feel the urge, but so far I have never done so.

I do have a large dungeon in seven pieces that is beginning to show age with dents, dings, corners separating and bits of plaster that has chipped off. That is going to be repaired if I find a buyer but it was my first piece and has been through about eight conventions. Lots of abuse moving it about and players banging on it. Still it is looking pretty good.

tesral
08-30-2008, 02:08 AM
OK, I am not getting the method here. Do you stack the cardboard so that it is edge on to the plaster, giving more keying for the spackle?

FYI there are several light weight spackles out there I have actually used to fix walls with. They could find use in terrain.

mrken
08-30-2008, 09:33 AM
Where I can, I stack and glue the cardboard diagonally so one layer will stiffen the other. This will reduce warping due to the moisture on thick pieces like mounds and tree bases where the base is flat and has no upright or other supporting pieces. The corrugation has all those holes for it's own rigidity, I tend to press the spackling into those holes prior to forming the surface. Sort of the way plasters used to work with lathe. Like the old mud and wattle method. It is pretty strong and quite light. It is the thin edges that are prone to damage if cut too thin. Priming and painting really helps strengthen this up if you allow the primer and paint to soak in.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/Hillwithconiforsa1.jpg
This piece is about ten years old. The flocking is a bit faded but no chips or nicks. Notice there is a bit of warping. This is because there is nothing to enforce it to plumb. A piece of cardboard glued edge to the flat edge will rectify this, like a wall or a building. This is why I go with hardboard now on pieces like this. I am building a round tower in this next series and am using cardboard and spackling on a hardboard base.

mrken
10-26-2009, 09:47 PM
Ok, it's been over a year now and I am still not finished with this one, but I am again working on it.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/Lowerlevel.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/Middlelevel.jpg

Skunkape
10-27-2009, 07:54 AM
Wow, all that brick work carving! You're a better man than I with all that work!

I've recently, over the past 6 months or so been watching people who are using YouTube to upload video tutorials of creating gaming terrain. Once I can afford to buy an interface box for my computer, I'm going to be doing videos of my own, but even at around $90 for the box, it's a little beyond my budget at the moment!

I've started using MDF for my bases now and will probably continue with that for any kind of floating type terrain.

mrken
10-27-2009, 01:01 PM
When you say floating type of terrain, you mean the terrain that you place on the table? I too have been using the MDF stuff these days as it is more durable than the cross bias cardboard and I like that. Not as cheap or malleable, but more durable.

As for the ability to video my work and post it on the net, yeah, I need another job. lol

Now, for the walls on the castle, yeah, one of the reason I donít need another job. It does take a lot of time, but I suspect the results will be much better than the results I get with my current methods. Not saying the previous methods are bad, in fact I really do like them and think I will go back to them when this project is finished, as I am getting anxious to start the work on a few projects that I have on hold while this one is moving along at a snails pace. Not really interested in dropping this project as it holds so much promise and I am still excited about the results the more I do on it.

Skunkape
10-28-2009, 07:38 AM
What I mean by floating terrain is pieces that are not locked together. For instance, World Works Games has terrain pieces that you can attach together to make a large single piece. See this youtube movie (http://www.youtube.com/v/oEsqxLrlNA0).

So you assemble these pieces and you get a large single piece of terrain, floating terrain would be more like a piece like the one pictured below...

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll111/wamasaka/MiniaturenfotosOriginale363.jpg

The above buildings are part of a large terrain piece and float on the table.

This is the direction I want to go with most of my terrain, even for instance with dungeons, having the pieces be more modular that you can place on the table on the fly and then take off as you need or don't need them.

mrken
10-28-2009, 02:36 PM
Hey Skunk, you talk about my pieces being labor intensive. Those houses made of match sticks? Those long ones for lighting the BBQ? Are we crazy or what? All this work for our games and the players never even notice. lol

WOW!!!
--- Merged from Double Post ---
Hey, thanks for the link Skunk. WorldWorks is great. I love my Watchtower. Still haven't made a fourth or fifth floor for it, would like to but I only have about 30 or 40 hours in a day like the rest of us. :(

Skunkape
10-29-2009, 08:11 AM
Hey Skunk, you talk about my pieces being labor intensive. Those houses made of match sticks? Those long ones for lighting the BBQ? Are we crazy or what? All this work for our games and the players never even notice. lol

WOW!!!

LOL, never thought about it that way! Course, those aren't mine, but I see your point!:laugh:


Hey, thanks for the link Skunk. WorldWorks is great. I love my Watchtower. Still haven't made a fourth or fifth floor for it, would like to but I only have about 30 or 40 hours in a day like the rest of us. :(

Welcome!

mrken
12-23-2009, 07:52 PM
Been taking a break from working on the castle because of friends encouraging me to do some work for AAM. The game uses 3" hexes so the terrain is a bit compact. Still, the stuff translates directly to gaming terrain. Take a peak.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/1Woodedhexes1.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/2Woodedandrough2.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/3Woodedandrough3.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/4Woodedandrough4.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/5Woodedandrough5.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c365/mrkenis/Water7.jpg

Haven't finished these as you can see. Will be finishing them up in a few days. Still have several dozen of these hexes left to put together, but will be working on them when I can. Still have the castle up there on that shelf waiting for me to get back to it.

Skunkape
12-28-2009, 10:21 AM
Looking great so far!

Mead
01-02-2010, 10:40 AM
A friend of mine used Hirst space tiles and some WorldWorks paper walls on foamcore to create a low-budget 3D Space Hulk tileset. I got him a box of the dental-grade plaster so it would last a while.

We actually skipped Battletech to play more Space Hulk at the last Monkeyfest.

If I have pics of it I can't find em, sorry =(
--- Merged from Double Post ---

Been taking a break from working on the castle because of friends encouraging me to do some work for AAM. The game uses 3" hexes so the terrain is a bit compact. Still, the stuff translates directly to gaming terrain. Take a peak.

[visions of btech maps made manifest PURGED]

Haven't finished these as you can see. Will be finishing them up in a few days. Still have several dozen of these hexes left to put together, but will be working on them when I can. Still have the castle up there on that shelf waiting for me to get back to it.

Great, now I'm gonna have to fight the urge to do this for oversized Battletech hexes. They look awesome!

Q-man
08-11-2010, 07:45 AM
I've recently started making some plaster terrain using the Hirst molds (http://www.hirstarts.com/). I haven't gotten much done yet though as I'm still figuring out some of the tricks to it. Anyway, some pictures of the works in progress:

The few pieces I have completed. A corner wall and two 3x3 floor sections.
http://www.mindlence.com/RP/Pictures/Completed.jpg

A few field stone sections that need some painting. I was making and painting the floors and walls separate, then gluing them together after the paint dried. I'm not sure if this is the best way to do it though.
http://www.mindlence.com/RP/Pictures/NeedsPaint1.jpg

Some gothic sections that need paint as well. The top part of the larger corner section is a bit of a mess, I was just getting them glued together when my boys started crying. As I dashed away I guess I bumped them and now they don't line up right.
http://www.mindlence.com/RP/Pictures/NeedsPaint2.jpg

Some other stuff I've but together that still needs work. The two 3x3 painted floor sections I need to make walls for still. The large wall section needs a 6 inch floor piece to go under it. The pillar and the brazier won't be glued down, they are meant to be decorations in any room.
http://www.mindlence.com/RP/Pictures/MiscBits.jpg

tesral
08-11-2010, 10:55 PM
Yes, i hope to get some pictures tomorrow.

Skunkape
08-12-2010, 09:18 AM
I need to get more casts of my molds made, but currently since I'm not running a fantasy game, I'm concentrating on building western style buildings for my western game so casting from Hirst molds isn't as big a priority as the western stuff.

mrken
11-26-2010, 11:11 PM
Maybe one day I will get into Hirst Arts molds. His stuff has always looked so great. There are plenty of tricks to help make the finished pieces look better. Mostly it is a matter of time to devote to the process. I can't even finish the projects I already have. Not having a game has been a problem with my motivation, but getting a new game going might actually motivate me to start building again.

Skunkape
11-30-2010, 09:49 AM
I've been slowly but surely building some western buildings, made by Eric Hotz and sold, here (http://www.erichotz.com/whitewash.html). It's called Whitewash City and they're pdfs for printing on cardstock. I recently printed out some on my laser printer at work and am gluing them to some cheap foamcore and building them that way so that the buildings will be more stable/durable.

I've cut some MDF to use as bases and have glued the floor plans to the bases and added scenery to the bases. Need to get some shots of them and then post them.

mrken
11-30-2010, 04:21 PM
Photos are always encouraged. Especially in this sub forum.

I discovered Eric's paper models a few years ago. Not really interested in western buildings as I don't play western games (did play Boot Hill a couple of decades ago). Have you seen any wooden buildings made out of Popsicle sticks? Saw some a couple of years ago and then bumped into them again earlier this summer. Please don't ask me where I found them, but they were superb.

Skunkape
12-01-2010, 07:55 AM
I had been using his buildings as a base and was gluing coffee stirrer sticks to them, but that's very time consuming and I've currently stopped that project. I'll get back to it eventually once I get more time, it's just quicker to print out the buildings and then glue them to foamcore!

mrken
12-01-2010, 01:33 PM
I just bought a bundle from World Works this last week, and my replacement laser printer showed up yesterday. Looks like there is a paper castle and city buildings in my future. lol

Now, share some pics dude. ;)

KevinLevin
08-04-2012, 06:26 AM
I've posted pictures of some terrain I've done recently on my website, you can view them here (http://www.johnprime.com/models/).

Currently all I have pictures posted are of cardstock models, but I've taken some of my plaster models, just haven't posted them yet.
I have found all the stuff very interesting. Thank you for sharing it.